Trousers and the like



April 8 1924-. 1,489,879

v. CORONA TROUSERS AND THE LIKE Filed Nov. 6. 1922 I I5 Sheets-Sheet l 5I Y ,1 I 5 April 8 v. CORONA TROUSERS AND THE LIKE 3 Sheets-Sheet 2Filed Nov. 6, 1922 April 8, 1924?. 1,489,879

. V. CORONA TROUSERS AND THE LIKE Patented Apr. 8, 1924.

OFFICE.

TROUSERS AND THE LIKE.

Application filed November 6, 1922. Serial No. 599,277.

' To all whom it may concern:

Be itknown that I, VINCENT CORONA, a citizen of the United States,residing at Chicago, in the county of Cook and State of Illinois, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements. in Trousers and the like,of which the following is a specification.

The present invention has to do with certain improvements in trousersand garments of a similar nature. The main object of the presentinvention is to make provision for the formation of the legs of thetrousers in such a manner as to eliminate the presence of the usualvertical or longitudinal seam along the outside of the trouser leg. Inthis connection a further object is to provide a garment in which eachtrouser leg comprises a single piece of material cut to the proper shapeor pattern and brought together with a single vertical longitudinal seamlocated to the inside of the garment, sothat the seams of the twotrouser legs are brought into proximity with each other, leaving theoutwardly facing sides of the legs seamless throughout substantiallytheir entire length.

The foregoing arrangement will make it possible to elfect a considerablesaving in the amount of labor necessary to manufacture the garment,since one complete longitudinal seam is eliminated on each trouser leg,there being two seams thus eliminated from the garment. This saving inlabor is further accentuated by the fact that where the garment includesa vertical seam alon its outside face itbecomes necessary to matc thisseam in order to provide a completed garment of satisfactory appearance.The matching of the patternalong the seam greatly increases the amountof labor necessary to manufacture the article, since the garment must atthe same time be properly proportioned throughout its length to ion surea satisfactory fit.

According to the present invention the only seam present throughout thevertical length of each leg of the garment lies on the inwardly facingportion of the leg at a point where the pattern of the goods is notreadily noticeable and therefore where it is not necessary to exerciseparticular care and ingenuity in bringing the edges of the materialtogether in order to properly register the pattern- Another feature ofthe invention relates customary when manufacturing the trousersaccording to previous methods, to build the pockets into the upperportions of the outside seams, since this can be conveniently andreadilydone, Owing to the fact that the garment of the present inventionis not provided with any outside vertical scam, I have made specialprovision for placing pockets in the upper portions of the trouser legs.In so doing, I have associated the pockets with the gores which areprovided for insuring a proper fit of the upper portion of thegarment,thereby availing myself ofthe presence of these gores in order to placethe pockets in the trouser legs notwithstanding the absence of theaforesaid longitudinal seams.

In connection with the foregoing, I have also provided a pocket of suchdesign and arrangement so as to give the completed garment asatisfactory and desirable appearance, and so as to ensure a properclosure of the pocket when the garment is being worn.

Other objects and uses of the invention will appear from a detaileddescription of the same, which consists in the features of constructionand combination of parts hereinafter described and claimed.

Referring to the drawings:

Figure 1 shows a side view of a pair of trousers embodying the featuresof the presthe pattern of the material at both sidesof ent invention,the lower end of the trouser leg nearest to the observer bein turnedback so as to reveal the presence of the longitudinal seam along theinside face of the leg; Fig. 2 shows a face view of a pattern for use incutting the material used in making thev garment of Fig. 1;

' Fig. 3 shows a cross section taken on the line 33 of Fig. 1 onenlarged scale;

Fig. 4 shows a fragmentary view of the upper portion of the material ofone trouser leg on enlarged scale and at the point where the pocket isto be formed, a gore having been out and sewed in the material;

Fig. 5 shows a cross section taken on the side surface of the trousermaterial, and the edge strips have been laid along the outside surfaceof the material at the two sides of the seam, and the back lining hasbeen-set against the inside surface of the article;

Fig. 7 is a cross section taken on the line 77 of Fig. 6, looking in thedirection of the arrows;

Fig. 8 is a view similarto that of Fig. 6 with the exception that theseam and the pocket lining have both been out along the length of thepocket which is to be provided;

Fig. 9 is a cross section taken on the line 99 of Fig. 8, looking in thedirection of the arrows; p

Fig. 10 shows a fragmentary face view of the upper portion of thetrouser leg on enlarged scale, the pocket being completed; and

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary section taken on the line 11-;11 of Fig. 10,looking in the direction of the arrows, and on still further enlargedscale.

Referring first to Fig. 1, the trousers illustrated include the two legs12 and 13 which are joined together in their upper portions in the usualmanner. Each of these legs includes a single piece of material which maybe of the general form of the pattern 14 shown in Fig. 2. lVhen thematerial is folded around to bring the edges 15 and 16 together, thelongitudinal vertical seam 17 is formed along the inside portion of thetrouser leg, reaching from the crotch 18 to the lower end 19.

Examination of Fig. 1 in particular shows that the exposed or outwardlyfacing surface of the trouser leg 13 is provided with a continuousdesign 20 which is not broken by any vertical longitudinal seam; whereasthe design 21 along the inside face of the leg is irregular by reason ofthe presence of the seam 17. The amount of this irregularity will dependupon the taper existing in the pattern and also the shape of the out. Inany case, however, it is observed that the design 20 along the outsideportion of the garment is practically vertical and is continuous overthe entire surface thereof, so that there is no need of exercising anypar ticular ingenuity in bringing the edges of the material togetheralong a seam in order to register the design or pattern.

The upper portion of the garment may be provided with one or more gores22 in each trouser leg so as to secure the desired fit around the waistof the wearer. If desired, a separate waist band 23 may be provided,said band having a series of slits 24 through which the belt of thewearer may be passed in the well understood fashion.

I have made provision for a pocket 25 at each side of the garment. Iwill now describe the form and arrangement of these pockets more indetail. For this purpose, reference may be had to Figs. 4 to 11inclusive. I first cut a vertical gore in the upper portion of thetrouser leg at the desired location of the pocket and then sew the edgesof this gore together by a line of stitching 26 as shown in Figs. 4 and5. This will be the gore 22, shown in Fig. 1. I then place the strips ofmaterial 27 and 28 along the outside or finished face of the garmentthroughout such portion of the length of the gore as is to be occupiedby the pocket or a slightly greater distance. These strips 27 and 28 arepreferably made of the same kind and pattern of material as is used forthe trousers themselves. I also 'lay another strip of pocket liningmaterial 29 against the inside face of the garment along the length ofthe gore; and then I sew the strips 27, 28 and 29 in place by the linesof stitching 30 and 31 respectively, which run parallel to the gore andreach entirely through the thickness of material, as shown in Fig. 7.

I may say that prior to placing the strip of pocket lining material 29,I prefer to iron out the flaps 32 and 83, as shown in Fig. 7, so as tomake them he flat against the inside face of the garment material.

The lines of stitching 30 and 31 should preferably extend throughout thelength of garment to be occupied by the pocket or a slightly greaterdistance.

After proceeding to the point so far described, I cut the seam 26 andthe oppositely placed pocket lining 29 as shown at 34 throughout thelength of garment to be occupied by the pocket as shown particularly inFigs. 8 and 9.

One of the strips 27 or 28 is intended to ultimately lie at the frontside of the pocket and the other of said strips will lie at the backside thereof, thus, the so-called front strip will occupy a positionwhich would ordinarily be contacted by the back face of the hand of thewearer, whereas the other strip will lie at the side where it wouldordinarily be contacted by the palm of the wearer when inserting hishands in his pockets. For pur oses of convenience, I will call the strip2 the front strip and the strip 28 the back strip, it being understoodthat this nomenclature is adapted simply as a matter of convenience.Referring to Fig. 11, after progressing to the point shown in Fig. 9,the front strip 27 is formed through the slit 24 and laid against itsback side, leaving, however, a suflicient amount of the material of'said strip to provide a flap 35 of width suflicient to lie across thepocket opening 36 and normally close the same. This pocket opening isestablished by turning the seam portion 32 back and laying it overagainst itself, and by turning the seam portion 33 back and laying itflat against itself as is clearly shown in Fig. 11. The

strip 27 is then laid against the backwardly folded edge portion 32, anda line of stitching 37 is provided to secure the folded edge portion 32in place and also to secure the strip 35 in the folded position justdescribed.

The back strip 28 is turned and passed through the opening 36 as shownin Fig. 11; and the edge portion 33 is held in the backwardly turnedposition of Fig. 11 by a line of stitching 38. This line of stitching 38does not preferably extend through the flap 28, but said flap is leftfree instead of being secured as is the case with the front flap 27 Thepocket 39 is secured to the projecting edge 40 of the strip 27 and tothe projecting edge 41 of the strip 28, and the pocket may also besecured to the pocket lining strip 29 at the front side and to thepocket lining strip 29 at the back side of the opening if desired. Inthe latter case the material of the pocket is extended past the edge 41of the strip 28, as shown at 42, in order to be joined to the liningstrip 29.

The effect produced by the arrangement above described is to provide theflap 27, as shown in Fig. 10, across the opening of the pocket, thusgiving the pocket a completed appearance and greatly reenforcing it, andmaking it possible to conveniently establish the pocket in the materialof the garment by the use of the gore and notwithstanding the absence ofthe usual longitudinally extending outside seam.

I wish to emphasize the fact that owing to the absence of anylongitudinally extending outside seam at the outside of the trouser legit becomes necessary to make special provision for accommodating thepockets, and for this reason, I have made the specially provided pocketsas hereinbefore explained.

While I have herein shown and described only a single embodiment of thefeatures of the present invention, still I do not limit myself to thesame except as I may do so in the claims.

I claim:

1. The method of forming pocket openings in the material of garmentswhich consists in first slitting the material to provide an elongatedtransverse opening with adjacent parallel edges, uniting the materialadj acent said edges by stitches, folding the resulting edges oppositelyupon itself, applying a backing strip of material over said foldededges, stitching said backing strip to said folded edges and first namedmaterial along each side of the stitch-united opening, and thereafterreopening the united opening for a portion of its length by cutting theuniting stitches and slitting said backing strip.

2. The method of forming trousers legs from a single piece of materialand forming a pocket opening therein which will not dis tort thevertical weave of the material in the finished product which consists incutting a single piece of material to provide substantially parallelupper and lower edges and diverging side edges, uniting the divergingside edges to provide the leg seam, slitting the material from the upperedge down wardly between said diverging side edges for a distancesuilicient to form a pocket opening with parallel edges, unitingseparate pieces of material to each side of said first-mentionedmaterial adjacent the edges of said opening, folding the pieces of material united to one side of said first-named material through saidopening, and thereafter uniting the pocket body to said separate piecesof material on one side of said first-named material.

VINCENT CORONA.

